Baraboo, Wisconsin
Crusin’ Rating: C-
Booze Rating: C-
This week, we are checking out Sognefjord Winery in Baraboo, Wisconsin! Sognefjord was started by a group of sisters very recently in August 2024. It’s located on the same property that also houses a wedding venue, Vennebu Hill, for a nice one-two punch of venue and wine provider if you’re looking for a spot to get married sometime soon. Pulling of Highway 113 on a blustery day that threatened rain, we drove along the driveway and into a gentle basin that houses a large parking, the barn venue, a large farmhouse and the brand new winery, complete with a glass facade that allows you to see into the production space from outside.
It would be tough to talk about Sognefjord Winery without talking about another winery that closed in 2020 due to the pandemic, Fisher King Winery because the same winemaker is now making wines at Sognefjord! Hannah and I had the opportunity to visit Fisher King Winery several times before it closed and before we really got the blog off the ground. At the time, they had a Marquette wine we were both fairly fond of so we were definitely looking forward to this new venture.
While we were eager to get inside as a chilly rain began to fall, we took note of an ample amount of picnic tables - some in front of the glass wall, others underneath a very large tree, and a patio area with metal tables, and some hanging lights. The inside, though, is quite the opposite. With only a small table and 4 raised seats near the window immediately as you walk in, this may be the smallest tasting room that we’ve ever been to. It left us wondering, with new construction and a new winery - why limit yourself to such a small indoor space when already wineries see a drop-off in business during the cooler months - with some flat out closing when it gets too cold. Maybe that will be the plan here? From what we could tell though, there were no plans for expansion, or really any room for an expansion of the tasting room as it stands currently.
One of the sister owners greeted us and was friendly enough - telling the story behind the name and how the winery is an extension of the venue that a family member owns. The big barn house is used as an Airbnb/wedding party suite for the venue - and - in the future, there will be a full on hotel future for venue guests. With a winery within walking distance, what’s not to like?
There were luckily two stools open for us just inside the door, and while it wasn’t spacious, it did afford us some natural light for photos and to examine our wine. I would say this tasting room does border on the “too small” wherein you are so close to other folks you unintentionally eavesdrop or need to make small talk due to proximity - not exactly a relaxing atmosphere. I’m sure the vibe is quite different outside in the summer, though. There isn’t a ton of room for decor, but the space was clean.
We snagged a very affordable flight of four wines for $6.00, one of which, of course, was the Marquette. There is also a small menu of snacks available. While they currently import grapes from California or New York, which is a major bummer, there are plans to plant vines in the future. The next wine that is in the works is a port to warm your spirits as winter sets in.
On to the wine!
Inger - 2018 St. Pepin (10.1% ABV) - This white that features some Wisconsin-grown St. Pepin grapes was almost as clear as water with just a touch of shimmering gold when held to the light. On the nose we picked up peach, dried apricot and sweet honey syrup. Lots of honey up front, with honeydew melon, citrus, and a slight acidic tang in the finish - this one left me with an overall fruit syrup impression, but Hannah thought was drinkable.
Astrid - 2023 Pinot Gris (12.5% ABV) - This one was a faint champagne gold, with aromas of green apple and minerality. We really thought this one had strong flavors of wet cardboard - cork taint we’ve learned it’s referred to- and had acidity that was high enough to pucker your face - almost to the point of vinegar. Whatever is going on with this one was definitely not supposed to.
Freya - 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (13.5% ABV) - This wine with grapes imported from Washington State poured a darker shade of garnet and smoked wood and cherry notes. With flavors of dark cherry, charred cedar, black pepper and even leather with some solid tannin presence I thought this was the best of the bunch and would go nicely with some grilled meat.
Torvi - 2018 Marquette Reserve (12.4%) - This was the wine we were waiting for and a flavor profile that Hannah has been chasing for years. A wine that should exhibit blackberry, cherry, plum and some spice with some medium-high tannin presence in our experience. What we got here was candied cherry on the nose, and very gummy candy when tasting with an overwhelming sense of woodiness, green strawberry and a viscosity almost approaching putty. This one was, ironically, and unfortunately, one we decided to not finish. Whether something happened since it was bottled or maybe our palates have learned a little bit more, this one really put a damper on a rainy day.
You know, other than the Marquette, we really never loved Fisher King Winery when it was open, we had experience serving the wines first hand a few times. We had experience tasting them several times and they weren’t really for us. After Fisher King closed and the owner voxed to reopen, which is a commendable goal, we were hoping that perhaps he spent the pandemic refining technique, learning from past mistakes, and improving. From this tasting, it would seem that as NOT the case.
The idea of having a winery, venue, Airbnb, and eventually hotel is a solid business plan, especially around the Dells Area. While, usually, I would chalk this up to new producer testing the waters, this is is part and parcel for this winemaker. We don’t think much has changed and, if anything, it’s become less pleasant. I don’t think we would go back here while that winemaker is there, unless for a wedding.
Better luck next time. Until then, keep on crusin’, don’t stop boozin’!
To learn more about Sognefjord Winery, please visit their website at: sognefjordwinery.com or on Facebook: @SonefjordWinery or on Instagram: @SognefjordWinery
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